April 2011 9
I’m looking all over for a 1983 Yamaha XJ750 Seca original owner’s manual and service manual. I can’t find anything and I was wondering if you have access to them in a PDF form or know where I can purchase one or both.
Thanks a ton, I love your blog!
I have the famous XJ CD Resources. A giant compiled archive of manuals for and articles about the XJ models, and in particular the XJ750. These CD’s have been around for years and years but there is no need for them to be an offline resource anymore. In the near future I’m going to be getting it online here. If you can sit tight you’ll be overwhelmed with how much there is available.
last year i got my hands on one and i am having problems with the electrial system. I’ll charge the battery and with the key not even in the bike i watch my meter go down. when i get the bike running the meter only shows 12 volts going into the battery.what can i do to get it to charge and to keep the battery charged. i already replaced the battery and cleaned the magneato
You might have a bad wire (short) somewhere? Happens a lot on old bikes. A bad headlamp can cause issues too even if the wiring is OK. I didn’t think the 81’s had magnetos? Don’t they have the stator/rectifier (regulator) setup? If so could be bad stator and/or rectifier they fail with age, mainly at the contacts.
I just bought a 1980 cb 650 custom for 300 bucks. It is in good shape but is missing the carburators. I am really stoked about fixing this thing up and found several carbs on ebay but they are about three or four years newer. Would they fit on my bike?
Don’t quote me but I think you should be able to use a cb750 carb from ’79-82. I think the 650 had the 42A model carb and the 750 had 42B and 42C. The 900 and 1100 would probably be overkill and cost more money but they might be able to be tuned to work with your bike too. There may also be some early GS/GSXR carbs that would work. Get a manual for your bike and it should have the carb specs, then match those specs against the carbs you find on e-bay and corss ref the carb model numbers?
Through some quick Googling, I came across your site. I think I am going to thoroughly enjoy popping in here over and over again!
I just stumbled upon a 1970 Honda CB450 as my first bike…It was too hard to resist…From the photos it looks solid enough for me to want to dive in as a restoration/learning experience.
Best yet, it was only a minor investment to me…$100 US dollars current owner just wanted it gone. I am going into it knowing that it might be stressful, challenging, and might not ever work for me….but at $100 bucks i couldn’t hold back.
I’ll pick it up this weekend and am anxious to start working on it.
I was wondering, who are your favorite parts resources for old Honda’s? I am looking at starting by grabbing the Clymer published maintenance guide/repair guide for this particular bike.
Any advice for a noobie would be incredible.
I used to have a long list of my favorite vendors on my blog – I forget what I did with it!!
There are many others, but those three are a good start for you.
I have a 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250R sitting in a garage. It’s been sitting in the garage for about 7 months now. I didn’t prepare it for storage cause I didn’t plan to be gone that long, but then life happened. I had someone try to start it, but it’s dead. I’m going to try to revive it. What are the best ways to go about this? Thanks!
Well, it could be dead for all sorts of reasons. The biggest is the battery.
Over 7 months your fuel will spoil and the carbs can certainly get gunked up, but the first thing to do is just get a new battery, put it in, and see if she’ll sputter or not. If not then pull the carbs and flush the fuel!
Notes from a Reader:
I’ve done the following for the last two bikes I’ve had to revive. The first was a 2007 Kawi Ninja 250 with 3k miles on it and the second was with a 1999 Suki Bandit 600 with 10k miles.
1. Removed the old gas out of the tank.
2. Drained the carbs and refilled with straight SEAFOAM.
3. Put the battery charge on 1 amp charge and left the battery charging a minimum of 8 hrs.
4. Drained the carbs and refilled gas tank with good gas and half a bottle of SEAFOAM.
5. Got both suckers to start, sputter and after a while got them to hold idle.
6. Ran the WHOLE gas tank around the block.
7. Refilled gas tank and added the other half bottle of SEAFOAM.
If you find that the bike is staying on with the enricher fully on but it dies when you try to push it back then 9 times out of 10 your pilot jets are clogged. In that case, just remove the carbs and boil the jets in straight lemon juice for about 20 minutes.
Dont forget to check your electrics and bulbs. Last thing you want to do is to be running around without tail or brake lights.
Hope this helps.
Last night I was sitting at a little restaurant having some tacos. A cute mexican girl sat at the table across from me and ordered food. We catch each others eyes. I say hello, she asks if I’m here with a friend. I say no. She motions that she might join me. I invite her over and she moves to my table. This should be fun, I love meeting new mexican girls. Things go south very quickly.
We do the standard greetings – who are you, where are you from, mucho gusto, etc. I’m having a beer, she only has food.
“I’d like a beer.”
Are you going to buy me a drink?
I just bought a 2004 XR 650R that has the full HRC Power UP Kit, precision concepts suspension, exhaust, etc. The bike runs like a top, but has a screeching vibe when you start to let the clutch out, where it suddenly disengages. Very hard to manage on the street or tight trails. I pulled the clutch apart and the plates and friction all are within spec, along with the springs. The judder spring and spring seat have been removed, which I’ve heard was a common thing to remove these for desert racing. Anyway, I wanted to remove the clutch inner nut, as I wanted to check out the thrust washer, I have heard they can get scarred and cause this screeching/sudden disengagement thing. I looked in the manual and saw a tool to remove the inner. Made a tool myself to hook to two of the clutch spring retainers and sure enough, snapped one of em clean off when I went to loosen the nut. Called a shop and they asked if I had air tools? Of course! Impact and off it came without even holding the inner. Geez!
Okay, so new inner, washers and nuts on their way. I also ordered the judder spring/seat as I want to put everything back together with just new washer and see if the screeching goes away, then I will consider putting the judderspring/seat back in as all manual show.
Question is, how do I torque that center nut that holds everything in? They show a tool in the manual that attaches to two clutch spring retainers, just as my tool did. I know that torqueing would be less force than undoing the nut, which is when I broke it. I really don’t want to break another inner, as they are $90 and take time to get.
I’ve never seen that happen before! Yikes.
When I’m removing the clutch nut and putting it back on I go about it a couple ways.
Of course the easiest way to get that nut off is to hit it with the air gun, it always pops right off. Often times I actually use the air gun to put it back on too – I just give it a quick zap to snug it up and call it done. Has always worked fine. Now that I think about it, I haven’t used a torque wrench on a clutch hub nut in quite a while, air tools just make it too easy. On my MX bikes I would actually sometimes just put the nut on as tight as I could with my fingers, then just flip up the tabs on the washer and be done.
To get proper torque here are a few techniques I use and like (in no particular order):
- Put the bike in 5th gear, stand on the rear brake, and crank on the nut. This can be a little tricky to orchestrate, but will work once you get the hang of it. You can also have a friend hug the rear wheel to his chest if he’s strong!
- Order a clutch basket holding tool. Lots of companies make them, Motion Pro comes to mind. There are holding tools that look like a giant vice grip which essentially lock on to the perimeter of the inner hub. There are also holding tools which lock the inner and outer hub together. Both work great in my experience, but I generally try to work with what I already have.
- Make your own clutch locking tool. I’ve done this many times with great results. Take an old friction plate and an old steel plate and clamp them to a workbench. Drill a couple holes through them, then stick bolts through the holes to lock the two plates together. Now you can put this into the clutch to lock the outer basket to the inner hub. Very helpful!
- Lock the engine in place by feeding a length of rope down into the spark plug hole. This will fill up the cylinder and prevent the piston from rotating and won’t damage anything. I prefer this technique on 2 strokes, on a 4 stroke like the XR650R just make sure you’re doing it on the compression stroke so the valves are closed.
Sorry you busted your hub. I’ll make sure I never do it that way!
I may just use a combination of your method with the impact to zap it, then try the 5th gear deal. Any thoughts on the judder spring removal? Have you ever heard of this?
Hope you’re recovered from your road incursion in Mexico! Thanks for the info. Excellent reads with the blog, website and the forum.
I couldn’t tell a difference between having a judder spring and not having it. If you’re putting in fresh plates, I’d just say ditch it for an extra fiber plate. Most of the aftermarket kits won’t come with a replacement judder spring anyway, and it wears out just like everything else. My opinion: ditch it!
Thanks for the kind words. Motor rebuild is in process then I’ll be back out on the highway (the dirt highway that is).
I never could find any info on what happened to your camper dealio on the blog?! What became of it? The second one. Understand why you ditched the first one. Can’t believe you were gonna salvage that one!
Yeah, that first one turned out to be a bit too much of a project. Nothing was worth keeping. The second one ended up being fantastic after I put a new floor in it. I lived in it for about 10 months while crossing the country with 3 dirtbikes. I would park it for a few days and ride absolutely everywhere. Spent lots of time in colorado, utah, and nevada. It was fantastic fun. I didn’t do a great job blogging about it, but I did take tons of photos.
Okay, I wanted to follow up on the screeching clutch. Just as I said, I changed the oil to Honda oil and it made no difference what so ever (dissapointed). I was hoping this would be the easy fix right?!
After calling and speaking with a few XR 650 types, I was told by Precision Concepts that it’s possible that the washer between the clutch basket and the clutch inner could be scarred and causing this. I thought it a long shot, but really wanted to pull this apart as I’m a newb when it comes to clutches. So I did!
Pulled the cover, then the 4 spring bolts and wala! Clutch friction and metal plates came out. I mic’d everything and the plates and the disks were all within spec, along with the clutch springs. I did buy an extra plate when putting the clutch back together and it mic’d at the exact same as the disks that I pulled out.
Next thing, had to get the clutch inner out to get to the washer between it and the clutch basket. This proved to be my undoing as I was trying to come up with a tool that would duplicate what I saw in the Honda Service Manual. You can see in the pic what my buddy, Jim and I, came up with. It was gonna work like a champ! I got my 27mm socket and 3/4 drive and as soon as I went to undo the nut I heard a high pitched snap! And there went one of the clutch spring retainers, snapped clean off the clutch inner. I had already put an order in for the three washers and nut that I would need to reassemble. I quickly called back and ordered the clutch inner too. That didn’t solve my need to get this thing off yet! I called the local shop and they asked if I had any air tools. Duh!!!!! Of course I have air tools. They said just put the impact on it in reverse. Sure enough, you don’t even need to hold the inner, the impact’s torque spins it off no problem. Bottom line, I broke the clutch inner for no reason at all. Now you know, use an impact to take the nut off!
So, everything was off and I inspected the suspicious washer, see pic.
It’s the one on top. I didn’t see anything wrong with it, other than a little discoloration, but new stuff was on the way!
Parts came in today, put everything back together. Oiled up the plates and disks, lubed up the clutch rod on both ends. Left the judder spring out, as I wanted to find out if just the washer was going to fix it, as there was no judder spring when I took it apart. Everything went back together text book(don’t forget the last clutch disk in grooves into the basket, opposite all the other clutch disks). I used an impact to put the clutch inner nut back on. I know, I know, I didn’t use Honda’s tool. Not buying that and Evan gave me some tips on do’s and don’t regarding the assembly of this thing. Had been warned about the clutch spring bolts, 9#’s only!
Anyway, it all went back together and took it for a drive. Just like any other clutch now. Screeching and lurching are gone. Sooooo, I guess it was the washer, just as Precision Concepts had thought. Not oil, or glazed disks as myself and a few others thought. Just that washer! So, thanks to all who offered advice and hopefully this will help someone out in the future.
Now it’s out to the desert this weekend. Glad this came together, I really didn’t want to take the paddle off of my CR 500 for this trip!
1980 XT250G the bike is only off road.
I am trying to get my bike running again. It is having trouble with starting. I have taken apart the carburetor and cleaned it. The float is working right. When I kick it to get it started it won’t idle, and when I finally get it to rev up it dies. Whenever I give it any gas after getting it to kick over it shuts down. My dad is the mechanic in the family and I have him helping me with it but he doesn’t have much time lately. I understand the basics of it. If you need any questions answered feel free to ask me and I will try to answer the best I can. If there is any insights that you could help me out with it would be much appreciated. Feel free to e-mail me any other questions or comments.
How much compression does it have?
If you don’t have a compression gauge you should get one and take a reading. There’s no sense trying to tune up a bike that needs a new piston and honed cylinder.
How many hours/miles are on the bike?
Does anyone happen to know what the ratio is for the tachometer on an 82 Nighthawk 450? I need to replace mine and I found an aftermarket one on EBay that comes with a matching speedo that looks good. May need to replace speedo as well. I Just replaced the cable but the speedo is sticking. Can find replacement stock speedo on eBay but sadly no tach at the moment. The ratio on the tach is 1:5 and the speedo is 60mph @ 2240 rpm. I know the Yamaha’s and Kawasaki’s use a 1:5 ratio but not sure about the Honda’s. Would these work for my Honda? Thanks.
Hmmm. That’s a good question Matt.
I didn’t find the answer in my manuals. I’ll have to pass this one off to the readers. Anyone know?
Hey. Bike me!
I have owned nearly every make and model of vintage Japanese motorcycle as well Europeans and more modern bikes. I do everything from simple fixes to full restorations. I also travel by motorcycle and race off-road. This is a blog about my bikes.
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