Ask Evan 240

The 1985-86 Honda Shadow VT1100C used two ignition control modules, OEM part numbers 30400-MG8-005 & 30420-MG8-005. I want to know if the 1985-86 VT700 used the same modules. The modules were made by Hitachi but they no longer make them and Honda does not have any more in stock. I have spoken with various parts houses and salvage yards across the nation with no luck. I would like to know if the VT700 modules could be used because I have come across someone that has one for sale very cheap. The price of the VT700 would be less than the cost of the OEM modules (each module has a msrp of more than $300). The VT700 would cost me $500. If the modules are the same, it would be a deal worth making. Any comments? Any idea if the modules are interchangable? All help would be much appreciated. Chief

Hi Chief –

The Ignition Control Module on the VT700 is part number 30400-MK3-721  (replaces 30400-MK3-004)

Doesn’t look like you have a match.

Keep your eyes on eBay – You’ll find one eventually. It could be pricey though.

Anyone know a good mechanic in Miami? My Honda is not getting oil on one side of the engine.  Would appreciate any tip.

George

If your oil flow is impeded only in one area you likely have a clogged line. If the oil pump or related components were failing then you wouldn’t have oil anywhere on the top end. If you’re sure about this then you likely already had a failure, in which case you’ll need to tear down the top end and inspect. Otherwise you’ll need to do the same, sadly.

Hey Evan

Need more advice on this KZ650 cafe project.  Bike is pretty clean but I am having the engine plastic bead blasted anyhow just to even out the look of the aluminum.  Till I am done this bike is going to be mostly engine anyhow so I want it to look good.

On my CB 900 I painted the engine black with high heat paint as it was mostly painted factory black in 82 anyhow.  But with the KZ I am wondering what sort of clear coat can I put on that protects the freshly blasted aluminum from oxidation while handling the heat without trapping too much?

My CB has an external oil cooler so heat is not a big issue but I’ve heard both painted air cooled engines are not a good idea to it doesn’t matter?

Thanks

Bill

I like the Duplicolor Engine Enamel products. I find they lay down much nicer than the Rustoleum and other spray equivalents.

I wouldn’t worry about spraying too many coats of paint on your engine. CB’s do not run especially hot and a few coats of paint has little effect. Many of the motors came painted and clear coated from the factory anyway.

Evan,
looking to turn my bike into a bobber really do not know how to go about it,do you think a shaft drive would turn out as a sweet bobber…this bike I hav had since new really do not want to let it go so really want a bobber and think it would make a nice one but never seen a shaft drive as a bobber if you know of any or have any pics would love to see them and any input you have would be greatly appreciated thanks bro looking forward to hearing from you Peace bro, Pete…

The quality of the finished project will be exactly as good as the effort and time you put into it. There have been tons of awesome shaft drive bikes built, the XS line is no exception.

I tend to like the bagged out XS1100’s myself, but I’ve always been an XS11 fan.

Hey I have an 82′ kz440 that i chopped into a bobber and i’m tryin to wire it the your diagram. this is my first bike that i am wiring. Your diagram is for a 4 cylinder and my obviously is a twin. maybe if you got a diagram for one you could email it to me. let me know!

The KZ440 is a great little bike. Should be a fun project for you! There isn’t much of a difference in wiring between a 2 and 4 cylinder bike, and if you go off ofhttp://cycles.evanfell.com/2010/03/simple-motorcycle-wiring-diagram-for-choppers-and-cafe-racers/ then you shouldn’t have any issues. The only difference is you have one coil instead of two.

Scored a mostly in tact 1981 XS400 earlier this week for a steal.  Definitely a project but it looks like it’ll be back up and running (at very least) with not too too much work.  Anybody played around with one of these before?  I’m debating going street tracker or cafe on it.  I mostly ride around New York City and up into the catskills/mountains.  I’m looking to keep this on the cheap.  Things I know I need are a clutch lever (ordered), a battery, tires, and almost 100% gonna need some cables and gaskets.  I’m definitely doing a seat/bar swap as well.

Any advice on what you’ve all done before and had fun on?  My other bike’s a 2001 buell blast with a bastardized cafe set up and it’s a ton of fun.

The XS400’s have great little motors, I’ve always enjoyed mine. I typically prefer the 1977 XS400 models because they are a more standard style rather than a cruiser like the later years. But they are good all around bikes regardless. I wouldn’t go ‘cafe’ with a cruiser if I was you, they never look quite right. Just clean it up, make sure it runs/rides nice, and enjoy it as is!

Notes from a Reader:
I own the bike as well. The common thing with the XS seems to be Cafe Racer. I can’t wait till I have money to make it worth something. The only thing I’ve had a chance to do is throw straight pipes on mine and do minor fixing up from accidents.
The only thing I have to say specific to the XS400 that I’ve noticed is the headlight is terrible weak if you ride at night.

I have a modified 26″ Bicycle which we STRETCHED 18 1/2″ are going to add 2cycle China Bike Motor 70cc to. :devil:

TO EXPLAIN WHAT WE HAVE DONE:
we lowered bike (top of seat is 20 1/2″ from street surface) because we are using 17″x3.50″ rear Motor  Cycle rim, tire and 10G/36H spoke coupled to a Custom Bicycle hub.  which has 6 speed free wheel gearing and disc brakes. the original BB or where pedal/chainwheel and crank were is now right side removable  (2) chain wheels 42t attach by chain to rear wheel, 24t attached to new BB chain wheel 38t and crank which is 18 1/2″ forward  from original location, to give leg room to pedal bike. Now on left side of bike  on original BB axle is 18 or 22t free wheel to attach to drive gear on motor.  We actually extended bike from seat post to front fork 18 1/2″ stetching out frame and then double walled all tubing.  We are using a Honda M/C front fork (suspension) which actually let use use either 26″ or a 24″ disc brake bicycle rim and tire (Double walled rim) We were actual able to fabricate a bracket to mount caliper to and original caliper fork mounts….lined up perfect with rotor.

REASON FOR SOME OF THE ABOVE (OTHER THEN LOOKS   :
What we have done is added freewheel to center BB to let motor sit still while pedaling and vise versa let the pedals sit still while under petrol power. (because of pedals it is considered a bicycle still and with specific additions is street legal with no license needed.

NOW THE PROBLEM: 
When we extended frame we gave Head Tube more rakeactually just turned it over. Not wheel wants to dart here and there. (when you turn fork ground contact point varies) We had Nice 26″ x 1.38″ tire and rim. We switched to 24″ x 1.75″ and that seemed to improve handling, Why?
If we go to 1.96 width tire or 2″ or even 2.25″ will it continue to Improve? Is it because wider tire is more contact surface? With 26″ as we turned fork tire contact seemed to roll from center tread to off center. Could I even go to 26″x 2.25 or 2.50 and get same improvements? (would look more Radical )
David

Hey David – sorry for the delay – I’ve been out riding!! 

Every bike, bicycle, motorcycle, etc will have a unique steering geometry and performance based on the rake, wheel size, fork length, and axle mounting position. The longer you stretch the front end of a bike the more the tires contact point with the ground will shift side to side when the handlebars are turned.

Ever notice that when you take a hard right corner on your motorcycle you actually turn the wheel to the left? Thats due to the offset, there’s not simple way around it. That’s also why, when you park your bike on the street you always turn the handlebars in, because the front tire will then be further to the outside of the bike’s axis allowing it to lean more firmly into the kickstand.

The slower you are traveling the more pronounced this effect will be.

If you want a more sharply steering and controllable bike, then bring your forks closer to vertical. A vertical fork is the only one which will not exhibit an offset in ground contact when the bars are turned.

You can also use a smaller tire, which again will reduce the side to side offset.

Keep me posted on your progress!