Ask Evan 240
First time poster, but found this site through Evan’s excellent carb cleaning guide. (I also have an ’82 750 Seca that I’ve owned since 1984)
In any case, I have a Honda Spree project I’m working on with my boys teaching them how an engine works as we completely restore this scooter. The case and parts have been cleaned up a bit and I’d like the carb to match.
Is there some clever way to do this? At this point I have cleaned the exterior with a 3M pad that I cut into circles and mounted to my Dremel. After that I tried some buffing compound and small buffing wheels, but it just doesn’t look as nice as the other aluminum parts.
Hey George – Sounds like a great project you have going!
I personally don’t ever go after the mirror finish. It is too time consuming in my opinion for the bikes I typically work on. It also takes a lot of effort to maintain. However, that said, I applaud your project and desire to get the best polish possible.
A flat finish can be caused by too rough of a surface on the aluminum. What grit sandpaper did you work your way down to – if at all? If it isn’t a sanding issue then give some jewlers rouge polish compound a try and buff the hell out of it.
The best I do on carbs is something like this.
This was just done with a soft wire wheel and a little quick wipe with some polish. Good enough for me! Hehe. If you want a mirror finish you have to start with sandpaper. 800 grit, 1200 grit, 2000 grit, then move on to the polish compounds.
I have had this strange fascination with cafe bikes and mid-70s sport bikes since an old co-worker introduced me to his two Moto Guzzi bikes about 10 years ago. Listening to that 850 Le Mans rumble in his shed planted a seed in the back of my mind that has been waiting to sprout. I have since tried getting a motorcycle on a number of occasions but something always came up (married, kids, etc..).
The time has come for me to finally pick up a project after a year of reading restoration stories and general “how-tos” (including many of yours!). I am a very competent mechanical person, one that works on my own car, takes apart broken things to solder wires and put them back together, and has the patience to take a long time to do something right the first time. However, when it comes to motorcycles, I really have no idea where to start or what to look for!
I would love to find a $500 barn-bike I can completely disassemble, clean and restore, then rebuild to my specifications.
What advice do you have for a newcomer to the vintage/restoration bike building world?
Response from a Reader:
Todd,do you have a certain kind, brand model in mind? if so research parts availability cost etc. be realistic ducatis even small ones are way more expensive than hondas. visit different sites to get ideas. remember single cylinder or twins are easier and cheaper generally than multis. if your looking to buy online look at pics carefully, scale the pic up to 200% and move it around how rusty are things etc. if your looking at and old bike most likely at a min you will need all new cables tires and tubes battery carb rebuild kit points and condensor, plugs, grips maybe a seat cover a repair manual. dont let this scare you this is half the fun researching customizing tracking down parts etc. remember also there is nothing wrong with small bikes moto guzzi made some pretty sweet bikes under 350cc. I am in the process of cafing a1967 kawasaki c2tr 120 roadrunner $250. I just got 1967 honda cb160 running for my brother $350. did the same thing for him 6 months ago on a 1971 ct90 with 1260 original miles $600 have a 1966 suzuki k15 hillbilly $250 waiting after the roadrunner is done, also a honda xl500 cafe project $500 after that. If you respond I will continue this on how i generally go about the process. hope this helps someone
anyone can help me about my honda xrm 110… the battery does not charge automatically. I tried to change the rectifier but same problem… please help me about my problem.. thanks
First off – is your battery old or worn out? A toasted battery won’t hold a charge and will put extra stress on the charging system.
Put a voltage meter on your battery and check the voltage. With the bike running it should be constant voltage, around 13-13.5 volts. If it is not (and it sounds like it won’t be) then it is either your regulator or your stator.
On your bike are the rectifier and regulator combined into a single unit? Or are they separate? If they are a single unit then it sounds like your stator has burnt out and needs to be replaced. If you have a separate regulator then it needs to be tested.
My 75 Super Sport had a thorough carb rebuild two years ago ( the shop is gone now ), I have been riding the bike at least once a month through the winter and out of the blue gas started running out of one of the tubes that come out under the bike. this was not a trickle, it poured out as fast as the tube would allow. Short of disassembly is there a way to free the float from the outside through the fill or drain ports ?
Hey Lelund –
The simple tried and true method is to rap on the bowl with the but end of a screwdriver to try and jostle the float loose again. *Don’t break anything!*
Also, if you have the right sized screwdriver or a little ingenuity with a box end wrench and screwdriver attachments, then you can often pull the bowl off the carbs without removing the carbs from the bike. Its tricky, but can be done.
The best advice however is to remove the carbs and clean them. Chances are they need it again. Once every couple years on a 35 year old bike isn’t out of the ordinary. It’s best to have the carbs tip-top then just-barely-clean-enough.
Cheers. Those 400f’s are great bikes. I wish I had one for daily commuting.
I just picked up a nice 1986 Yamaha Radian 600, bike’s generally in good shape, runs great, only 16,000miles! My only question is about the wiring coming off the r/r… I noticed that there are 2 wires that are cut between the r/r and its harness. One is white and one is red. I would imagine these wires were originally put there for a reason, but the bike seems to run fine without them. I was wondering what problems this might cause and what would likely happen if I replace the r/r with one that does NOT have any cut wires…
I circled the 2 on the diagram that are cut in the linked jpeg. The white goes to the magneto and the red comes off the “Main” fuse and also goes to the ignition switch…
Thanks in advance, and any help or input would be greatly appreciated!
Hey Jhutchy – Hope you’re enjoying your radian. Those are great bikes. The only fault in my eyes is a slightly small tank.
If the wires are coming off the stator and going to the regulator/rectifier combination unit that I’d imagine you’re just fine. If either of the cut wires were going to be a problem they would manifest themselves immediately. It’s possible that your alternator has been modified in some way and the wires were no longer needed. It’s hard to say. As long as your bike is charging properly and shows good voltage on the battery then you’ll be fine. It is strange though. Bike still going well?
Just wondering if the carb cleaning article counts for my 1983 gs 750 e suzuki,i need the carbs cleaned and wondered if this article will help,i havent wrenched on my gs yet but am planning on it.Also,do you know of any good sites that have info and help for fixing my suzuki gs 750 e.
The carbs on the GS750 are a very similar design to the ones used in my article. They won’t match up perfectly, but are close. The cleaning principles however are the same. Just take your time, be cautious and thorough, and the bike will live a long healthy life.
The best forums around for the Suzuki GS series are right here:http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/index.php
Hope all goes well!
Hi – I need to replace fork seals. Do you have a good step by step? What oil type and fill level?
1982 Yamaha 550 maxim.
I just did the carb cleaning and it worked thank you.
If you do not have shop manual for your bike I would recommend you buy one. I do have a fork service article in the works, but it is not quite ready.
I have a manual for the Yamaha XJ600SK. The fork seal replacement is quite similar, and in fact it’s very similar to all bikes of the same era.
In all of my older bikes when servicing the forks I use ATF fluid to fill them. Most bikes from that era had a 7-8 weight oil in them from the factory. ATF is generally 7.5 weight and very cheap down at the auto parts store. The XJ550 and XJ750 both use a 10w oil from the factory so you might stick with that if you like the ride quality. I tend to like my suspension a little on the plush side for highway cruising.
I also run ATF in my 2 stroke transmissions.
XJ550 Maxim fork oil capacity is 272cc or 9.20 fluid ounces per leg.
I need an exploded view of the carburetor linkage on a 1985 450 Honda
Nighthawk. Thank you.
If you need a manual for the Honda 450 Nighthawk the best I can do is the Honda CM450 Service Repair Manual which shares the same engine and many other parts as well. They are very similar bikes.
I’ll keep my eyes open for a Nighthawk specific manual and will post it if I can find one.
I have a 82 suzuki gs1100 i can’t get fire from my coils i hooked up the stator wires to a rectifier and a hot from ignition to coils it does not have points looks like some kind of elect. Ignition there are 4 wires running to the coil thing two to each side i do not know what to do from here please help
The pickup coils are part of the ignition system and yes, they are the ‘two stationary things’ that the lob basses by. They do not carry large voltage and it is pretty rare that they fail. Many of the early 80’s japanese bikes had Ignition Control Boxes that were prone to failure. I’m not sure if your GS has one, but if so it is the most likely culprit.
However, the first thing you should do is check the resistance of your coils and spark plug caps. It’s easy and free.
How the H*LL do you get the right side dust cover off to drive out the bearing?
Is there a circlip that holds in the bearing in on the CX500? If not, just pound out the bearing as normal, the dust cover certainly won’t prevent it from coming out.
If there is a circlip you need to get to, then just pry the crap out of the dust cover with a flathead until it at least tears and you can grab it with some pliers. (Replace with new )
I got it out several days ago. I didn’t realize it was a “small” seal, I thought I had to get the entire big cone shaped dealy off there. I did have to cut 1/8″ off the spacer that’s between the bearings though. The new bearings wouldn’t seat properly otherwise. Almost time to put the newley polished carbs back in and fire it up.
Cheers to that!